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Features:
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The gearbox was completely rebuilt, with new sealed bearings. The thrust bearing at the end of the carriage lead screw where it enters the gearbox is a new sealed unit as well.The toolpost is an Aloris AXA.The old bull gear is sitting on the cinder block wall in the background. It had a chipped tooth, and was replaced with a NOS bull gear, in the original box! |
The hardened ways are in excellent condition. The spindle and spindle bearings are shiny and immaculate. The spindle was disassembled (carefully!), and cleaned. This was necessary in order to install the New-Old-Stock bull gear. The belt cone pulley was cleaned, and the spindle thrust bearings were cleaned.There is some swarf visible between the ways; the lathe does get used ;-). The bed of the lathe was completely stripped of paint (UGH), and was degreased, washed, primed, and received MANY coats of paint.All wiring on the lathe is new, and routed through liquid-tight conduit.The micrometer carriage stop is visible, along with the bracket, immediately above, which allows the carriage stop to be moved closer to the headstock, which is often necessary when using collets. |
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During disassembly, the tailstock-end pedestal bearing (steel shaft slightly protruding out the end of pedestal) was removed and polished in a lathe, for the following reason.Twist in the bed is removed by using the bed "tilt" adjustment screws. One is visible on the pedestal, with the circular brass tag around it. Another is on the rear of the pedestal. Because the bearing shaft was polished, this adjustment works very smoothly and precisely, and is critical to eliminating bed twist. I have found that the best way to eliminate twist is to completely loosen the tilt screws, place the lathe and shim the headstock end level. Having end-to-end slope is not a problem. Because the tilt adjustments are slack, the bed will not have any twist in it. At this point, you tighten the tilt screws to lock it in position, being careful not to induce any twist by unequal tightening of the screws. Its very helpful to have a master precision level when doing this!The collet rack, and telescopic steady rest (not repainted) can be seen here. |
This shot shows the detail of the headstock pedestal. The pedestal was completely disassembled, stripped, degreased, primed, and painted. Many parts were sandblasted in order to clean them, prior to degreasing.Also visible is the box which houses a terminal strip for the wiring. |
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This shot shows the terminal strip box, without cover (please don't tell OSHA), along with the motor starter housing. The motor starter required new coils for single phase operation. The terminal strip makes it very easy to switch the motor over to 110V, from 220V, which is the way its currently setup. See the following photo... |
Here we see inside the headstock pedestal, looking at the "UMD" or "underneath motor drive."The motor is a new Leeson Farm-Duty TEFC 1.5HP Single Phase reversing motor.All the shafts visible in this photo are shiny because they were all cleaned, and polished on a lathe.The belt pulley shaft bearings were replaced with new sealed units. The flat belt is old, but a new leather belt, still in original wrapping has been obtained.The inside of the door was not repainted in order to preserve the label, which has info about setting up the belt tension, etc. |
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All in all, I am pleased with the result. The lathe is very accurate, and one can hold tenths if one is careful, with a sharp tool. I have been told by machinists far more experienced than I that the South Bend 10" lathe is an excellent lathe for threading. I have done several projects requiring threading and found it pretty easy to do, with good results.
See "In Progress" Photos
Heavy 10 Tooling